The smell of fresh air, the feeling of the sand between your toes, waves crashing, and a board tucked between your arm and body. Surfing is like no other sport, and no other feeling. When you’re on the wave, it’s like you’re floating, as if you are connected with the ocean.
To many people, surfing has evolved from a sport to something much larger. Surfing has become a way of life for many people in the world, and many people in the Humboldt County community.
Senior Windston Stratton said, “I surf because it brings me joy. Being out in the water like that really just takes your mind off of anything that’s going wrong. It makes you feel better.”
Stratton has lived in Westhaven his whole life, making surfing for him very accessible. His first time surfing was when he was around 4, but he really got into it at ages 9 and 10.
“My dad really got me into surfing,” Stratton said. “Ever since then, I just fell in love with the sport. It’s not like anything else in the world– like every wave is different and unique; it’s something new every day.”
Although surfing is a great sport, you have to be aware of the dangers that come with it. There are some situations that can be life-threatening. Mostly, the local spots such as State Beach, Camel Rock, Moonstone Beach, or Agat Beach are safe, but in some cases (depending on conditions or time of year), you have to be cautious.
“There’s been times where I’ve been held down for sure, but I mean not too bad. I think the scariest moment was when I got charged by this giant, like a huge sea lion, at Agat beach. I remember it started charging at me, and I barely caught a wave away from it, and then it rushed at my friend Reid Vadurro and hit his board. I’d say that was for sure one of the scariest situations I’ve been through,” Stratton said.
Senior Reid Vadurro shared the experience with Stratton.
“Yeah, Windston was outside when I saw him panicking. He caught a wave past me, and the sea lion was just rushing my way. It barely missed me. Luckily, it hit my board and didn’t get me,” Vadurro said.
Surfing comes with its dangers, but to many of the surfers who have spent their lives in the water, the risk is more than worth the reward. Surfing is something that incorporates its way into who you are, and really lives with you.
